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March 04, 2008

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I bought a bow more than a few years old from a friend who had just gotten a new one. If you can kill them with a true stick and string then an old compound will do the trick too. I took my first buck, a small seven point at ~30 yards, I missed a decent 8 and a doe. I know why I missed both of those and it was my fault, not the bow. If it's what you can afford it will get the job done if you know how to shoot it.

lots of guys in our archery club have to have the new name or camo patern and have barely gotten there year old bow broke in!
i follow the new models then pick them up from other local guys who have 1-2 year old
bows for sale for $400-$450 and were new $700+. most of these bows have only had a couple of 3-d shoots and 1 or 2 hunts and
very little practice time. i will shoot them
more in a week than they were shot all year.
by the time i am done the finish is worn off
around the grip and i still get about $200
for them used as starter bows for someone.

do be careful when buying from a stranger,
watch for cracks in the limbs and look at the bow from end to end to make sure wheels
are lined up and it wasn't dropped!!!!!!!

Bought a Martin Cougar III SE from a guy at work who shoots lots of tournaments and gets a new bow every year. It was a year old and in great shape despite being a shot a bit. I got it for less than $300 with a dozen arrows (he shot same arrows I did) and had it all accessorized for about $450. I've used this bow for two years now and still love it. I haven't thought about getting a new one yet but I can always get another one from him when I'm ready ;)

Buying a used bow is like buying a used car.
Someone else has already taken the huge depreciation hit, and if you are smart you can a find really good deals. Operative words there, "IF YOU ARE SMART." You have to know what your looking at, have a little education and do a little research.

I really have to question the reasoning for buying a Brand spankin' new bow for as much $$$ as a nice rifle then trading it away in a year or so for the next latest and greatest.

Find a good one that you can afford, stick with it, practice enough to get to know the equipmentand its LIMITATIONS. Too many people want to substitute spending money on new fancy equipment instead of spending time for practice and woodsmanship.

My 1995 Browning Ballistic Mirage, was at the time worlds fastest (IBO) bow. There are lots of new bows that'll out shoot it now, but none of them make a deer any deader!

Another thing...you might want to build/buy yourself an evil black rifle instead of (or along with:) a handgun. They're much more likely to be a target of Obama/Hillary. I have the handgun already (Glock 36). Been kicking around an AR for months. Might have to get off my hinder and pull the trigger (pun intended) before it's too late.
Actually, alot of what I've been reading on buying weapons before a ban could happen is saying the way to go is to buy a lower reciever (or two) and put them away. It's the only part registered as a weapon by the govt. and they're only a few hundred bucks or less. Then you can always buy an upper to finish it off. My .02

MY dad bought me a used bow three Christmas's ago. Matthew's Feathermax Solocam. Paid close to 300 for it and only put a quiver and whisker biscuit on it. EVerything works fine on it and it shoots great( I have choked on both of the deer I've shot at with it, not the bows fault. He bought himself a Matthew's outback(Generation before the switchback I htink) and he loves it. I owuld like to get a bow with parallel limbs but don't really have the money for it right now. And here is a basic stupid quesiton but I can never think to ask it and don't feel like looking it up lol..what is IBO? COdy

Cody,
IBO stands for the International Bowhunting Organization and when used in conjunction with bow speeds, it equals a standard of no less than 5 grains of arrow weight per pound of bow draw weight.
In otherwords a REALLY light weight arrow, shot from a heavy poundage bow will move very quickly. Manufacturers adopted this standard a decade ago to advertise their arrow speeds, then the race was on.

That brings up another interesting point of contention between bow hunters, Fast Vs. Mass!
A heavier arrow will have more energy and hold onto its energy for a longer period of time and distance, meaning greater penetration. The trade off is higher arc trajectory. A lighter arrow will travel MUCH faster, but will shed its energy sooner. The upside is a flatter trajectory arc.

Maybe that would be a good blog subject someday.

With my current bow,I could shoot an IBO arrow at 315+ fps, but I shoot a heavier arrow, my bow moves this arrow at around 250fps, but at distances less than 30 yards, I get complete pass throughs if I don't hit heavy bone.

Every bow hunter will have a different opinion on this!

Just found this explanation on the Archeryexchange.com site


I.B.O.

Under this standard the bow being tested will have a maximum pull weight of 70lbs. The arrow will have a grain weight of 350(5 grains of arrow weight per pound of bow weight). The draw length will be set at 30 inches. The chronograph used for measuring the speed will be placed at point blank range for testing.

Like MPG ratings in a car, Your mileage may vary.

Thanks TD, kinda useful information. I personally like the idea of aheavier arrow because I won't shoot at anything farther than 40 yds, preferably no more than 30. Especially considering the fact that I haven't killed anything with it yet :)
Cody

shot a hoyt vtec bought brand new worked three summer jobs to afford it and was well worth it just switched to blazer vanes and already has shrunk my groups by about two inches at 40 yards that bow will last we hopefully the rest of my life

d

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